Why I keep going back to Essaouira

Why I keep going back to Essaouira

Four visits to Essaouira and I still can't explain the pull. The wind, the seafood, the Gnawa music, and why it beats Marrakech for my kind of travel.

The Atlas trek that changed my mind about failing

The Atlas trek that changed my mind about failing

I went to summit Toubkal and failed. What happened instead at the refuge, in the Berber villages, and on the descent changed how I think about success.

How Morocco has changed in the last ten years

How Morocco has changed in the last ten years

A decade of Morocco travel, then and now. Instagram tourism, Al Boraq train, riad boom, Jemaa el-Fnaa changes — what shifted and what endured.

Is a luxury desert camp in Merzouga worth 350 euros a night?

Is a luxury desert camp in Merzouga worth 350 euros a night?

I stayed at a 350-euro luxury desert camp and an 80-euro budget camp in Merzouga. Here is exactly what you get at each price point and when it matters.

Ramadan in Fes: the trip I almost cancelled that became the best one

Ramadan in Fes: the trip I almost cancelled that became the best one

I almost cancelled my Fes trip when it fell during Ramadan. What I found: quieter days, extraordinary iftar, a city I'd never have seen otherwise.

Ranking Moroccan classics from tagine to pastilla — with hot takes

Ranking Moroccan classics from tagine to pastilla — with hot takes

A personal ranking of Morocco's classic dishes — tagine, couscous, pastilla, mrouzia, rfissa, harira, tangia — controversial takes.

Should you use a private driver in Morocco? An honest guide

Should you use a private driver in Morocco? An honest guide

When a private driver genuinely makes sense in Morocco — real quotes, how to find a good one, and when to skip it and take the bus instead.

Tangier first impressions: what nobody told me about Morocco's gateway city

Tangier first impressions: what nobody told me about Morocco's gateway city

An honest first visit to Tangier — Paul Bowles, Ibn Battuta, and why this city feels unexpectedly European. What surprised me most.

Travelling Morocco during Ramadan surprised me in ways I did not expect

Travelling Morocco during Ramadan surprised me in ways I did not expect

A personal account of visiting Morocco during Ramadan 2023. What changed, what didn't, and why it turned out to be one of my best trips.

Is Marrakech overrated? An honest opinion after five visits

Is Marrakech overrated? An honest opinion after five visits

Where the Marrakech hype is genuinely earned, and where it falls short. An honest take after five trips to the Red City.

The Sahara disappointed me. And then it didn't.

The Sahara disappointed me. And then it didn't.

My first Sahara trip was underwhelming. Then the sunrise happened. An honest account of Erg Chebbi, camel tourism, and the moment it all shifted.

My worst Sahara tour mistake — and what I'd do differently

My worst Sahara tour mistake — and what I'd do differently

I booked the cheapest shared Sahara tour from Marrakech. Here is exactly what went wrong, and how to avoid making the same mistake.

Morocco with a toddler: the honest family travel review

Morocco with a toddler: the honest family travel review

The real experience of travelling Morocco with a two-year-old. What worked, what was hard, where to stay, and whether it is worth it at all.

What nobody tells you about the Atlas Mountains

What nobody tells you about the Atlas Mountains

Altitude, weather swings, muleteer ethics, and real costs in the Atlas. The honest guide for hikers and day-trippers heading into the High Atlas.

Chefchaouen: what Instagram shows versus what you actually find

Chefchaouen: what Instagram shows versus what you actually find

Before and after the Instagram boom — what's still charming in Chefchaouen and what's been overrun. An honest look at Morocco's blue city.

Why Essaouira beats Marrakech for first-time Morocco visitors

Why Essaouira beats Marrakech for first-time Morocco visitors

A contrarian case for starting your Morocco trip in Essaouira instead of Marrakech. Less hustle, better seafood, same culture — easier entry.

10 things I wish I knew before my first trip to Morocco

10 things I wish I knew before my first trip to Morocco

The lessons you only learn on your first Morocco trip. From tannery touts to tagine ordering, here is what we would tell our past selves.

Diary of three days lost in the Fes medina

Diary of three days lost in the Fes medina

A day-by-day journal of three days inside Fes el-Bali medina — getting lost, finding tanneries, hidden restaurants, and Gnawa music.

Why Morocco should be your first North African trip

Why Morocco should be your first North African trip

Morocco is the easiest entry point to North Africa — here is why it works so well for first-time visitors, and what to expect on arrival.

I took Al Boraq, Africa's first high-speed train — here's what it's like

I took Al Boraq, Africa's first high-speed train — here's what it's like

A firsthand review of riding Morocco's Al Boraq from Tangier to Casablanca. What it costs, what to expect, and how to build it into your trip.